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Grilling vegetables causes the natural sugars to concentrate and become very flavorful.

Why does the subject of vegetables inflame such passionate feelings? A brief, innocent mention of brussels sprouts in a casual conversation can lead to long-winded diatribes about their vile smell and foul flavor.

Then there's the contentious matter of a cooked vegetable's texture. To some, asparagus that has been cooked al dente is sublime. But to others, those same spears aren't tender-crisp at all but downright raw and inedible.

The field of vegetables is so vast, and their cooking methods so gloriously varied, that there's something for everyone.

So here's a guide to the best cooking methods for seasonal produce.

Moist-heat Methods

Blanching: Vegetables are briefly put into a saucepan of boiling water and the timing begins immediately. This method doesn't fully cook the food but softens the texture.

To stop the cooking and set the color, refresh the vegetables by immediately draining and plunging them into ice water.

Vegetables can be blanched a day in advance of serving. Once they're refreshed, pat them with paper towels, then wrap them in dry towels, place in a plastic bag and refrigerate. Finish cooking by sautéing or stir-frying the vegetables.

Blanching and refreshing also are necessary before freezing vegetables to keep the enzymes from breaking down both color and texture.

Boiling: Here's a myth buster. Adding a pinch of baking soda to boiling water may indeed help keep vegetables green, but the soda's alkali destroys cell walls, causing a mushy texture – so skip that idea.

There is, however, a real solution to holding the vibrant color. “Essentially, with most green vegetables, you can count on having seven minutes of heat before there is a major color change,” says Shirley Corriher, author of “CookWise: The Secrets of Cooking Revealed” (William Morrow). “Cooking longer will cause the natural acids present in vegetables to turn them yellow-brown.”

Vegetables should be added to rapidly boiling water, and the timing should begin only when the water returns to the boil. Leave the pan uncovered.

Braising: Vegetables contain natural moisture, which releases in cooking. Lightly brown the vegetables in a little fat, than add a tablespoon or two of liquid to start the cooking process. Cover the pan and cook slowly over medium-low heat. Once the vegetable has released its moisture, add only enough liquid to keep it moist.

Steaming: A large pot and a simple steamer basket are the tools needed to cook vegetables with this method. Don't pack the basket too tightly or the cooking will be uneven. Bring the water to a boil before placing the covered basket above the pot.

Dry-heat methods

These methods evaporate moisture in the vegetables quickly, which causes the juices to brown and the natural sugars to concentrate and become very flavorful.

Broiling: The heat source is above the food, making this a great technique for blistering the skins of sweet peppers or chilies for easy peeling and a smoky flavor. Sliced vegetables such as eggplant should be brushed lightly with oil to keep them from drying out under the high heat.

Grilling: This technique is similar to broiling, but the heat comes from below, and a basting liquid is needed to keep food moist. Grill baskets or a perforated stainless-steel grid are perfect for keeping small vegetables such as mushrooms from falling into the fire below. For indoor cooking, heavy grill pans caramelize the vegetables and give them a wonderful smoky flavor.

Roasting: This has become a favorite technique for cooking vegetables. Toss with a little olive oil and sprinkle lightly with salt, then roast in a single layer in a shallow, rimmed baking sheet. The high temperature of 400 degrees or above causes the vegetables to shrink and lose their natural moisture, which concentrates the sugars and deepens the flavor. (Baking uses a temperature of 375 degrees or lower.)

Sautéing: The pan size should be large enough to cook the vegetables in a single layer without crowding. The bottom of the pan should have a light coating of oil, or a mixture of oil and butter. A nonstick cooking spray also can be used. Set the pan over medium heat and wait for the oil to become hot before adding the vegetables. Blanch tougher vegetables such as green beans first to speed the cooking process.

Stir-frying: Basically, this technique is similar to a sauté, but vegetables are cut into smaller pieces. Use medium-high to high heat for quick cooking and toss often.

Sources: “ Williams Sonoma Kitchen Companion”; “ Vegetables Every Day” by Jack Bishop; “ Perfect Vegetables” by the editors of Cook's Illustrated; “ Cookwise” by Shirley Corriher.

Grilled Vegetables With Balsamic Vinegar

6 to 8 servings

• 1 pound medium-thick asparagus
• 3 red bell peppers, cut in half, stemmed and seeded
• 2 yellow summer squash, cut diagonally into 1/2-to 3/4-inch slices
• 2 zucchini, cut diagonally into 1/2-inch slices
• 12 cremini mushrooms
• 12 green onions
• About 4 tablespoons olive oil (divided use)
• 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
• 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt (divided use)
• 1/2 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh basil
• 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary

Snap off ends of asparagus and wash well. Wrap in paper towels and set aside.

Cut each bell pepper half into quarters and set aside. Prepare the yellow squash and zucchini; set aside. Wipe the mushrooms with a damp paper towel, trim stem ends and cut each in half. Trim and discard ends from the green onions. Rinse well and pat dry.

Whisk together 2 tablespoons olive oil with balsamic vinegar, 1/2 teaspoon salt and a little pepper; set aside. Brush vegetables with remaining olive oil and sprinkle with remaining salt and pepper.

Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for medium-high heat, or preheat a ridged grill pan for 5 minutes on medium-high. Working in batches, grill the vegetables until tender and lightly charred all over, about 8 to 10 minutes for bell peppers, yellow squash and zucchini; 5 to 10 minutes for asparagus; 5 to 7 minutes for mushrooms; and 4 to 5 minutes for green onions.

Arrange the vegetables on a platter, sprinkle with herbs and drizzle with dressing. Serve the vegetables warm or at room temperature.

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