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Roast Turkey

6 to 8 servings

• 1 (12-to 14-pound) turkey, preferably fresh, giblets removed; if turkey was frozen, thaw completely in refrigerator (this can take days)
• 2 tablespoons kosher salt
• 1 tablespoon ground black pepper
• 1 large onion, peeled and quartered
• 3 stalks celery, each cut crosswise into two or three pieces.

A half-hour before cooking, take the turkey out of the refrigerator. Pat the turkey dry with paper towels. Place it in a large roasting pan and set aside. Place a rack in the lower third of the oven; heat the oven to 425 degrees. Higher heat speeds roasting without too much splattering and smoking.

Mix salt and pepper together and rub mixture all over skin and inside cavity of turkey. Stuff cavity with onion and celery. If you wish, tie legs together with kitchen twine and tuck wingtips under wing, but this will slow cooking time.

Put turkey in oven, uncovered. After a half-hour, remove turkey and place a sheet of foil over breast, crimping edges to side of roasting pan. Place pan back in oven.

After another hour, remove turkey from oven, take off foil and discard. Do not baste. Begin checking temperature by inserting a meat thermometer straight down into fleshiest part of thigh, where it meets drumstick. Check a second spot, then remove thermometer.

Place the bird back in the oven, checking periodically until thermometer reads about 165 degrees. Total cooking time should be 11/2 to 2 1/2 hours, depending on size of turkey. If bird is larger than 14 pounds, keep foil on longer.

Remove the pan from the oven and cover turkey with fresh foil and then a damp kitchen towel. Let it rest for a half-hour before carving. The turkey will continue to cook and the juices will set into the meat.

Start to finish: 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 hours, plus half-hour's resting before serving.

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