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Whole Chicken Suggestions

While a rowdy game of volleyball takes shape at one end of the yard and a gaggle of children plays tag at the other, the cook remains inextricably tied to the grill.

Perhaps he – or she – runs laps to the table, depositing platters of charred hot dogs or smoky salmon fillets. He might even scarf down a quick burger in between basting. But until the last guest has filled a plate, the griller mustn't abandon his post.

There are foods, however, that don't require a dedicated baby sitter, and grilled whole chicken is among the most satisfying.

“Is that even possible?” you might be thinking. “Is there a way to cook through the whole chicken without burning the skin?”

The answer is yes – if you're willing to forgo the grill marks and practice a little patience.

Jerry-rigged to stand upright or placed over indirect heat, a whole chicken gets the benefits of both grilling and roasting. With the lid closed, the grill doubles as an oven. The result is a bird that stays tender and juicy, yet still inherits traces of smoke. Chicken cooked this way is a crowd-pleaser.

Multiple choice

When it comes to keeping the chicken in one piece, there are actually a few options.

The first time I – and this is the most G-rated way to describe it – shoved an opened beer can up the cavity of a chicken, I had trouble getting past the absurdity of it.

Now I know better; the outcome is unrivaled. The beer steams the bird from the inside, while the heat of the grill cooks and crisps the exterior, producing succulent meat that falls off the bone.

The beer can acts as an anchor; the two drumsticks complete the tripod that keeps the bird standing upright on the grill. For a small chicken, the wait time is only an hour.

Indirect cooking takes more time, but the result is equally gratifying.

Grilling chicken over indirect heat requires only a portion of the grill to be lighted. If you place the chicken away from the heat source, it cooks slowly without the fear of flare-ups or burning.

While the skin may not turn as crisp and golden brown as it does with oven roasting, a moderate soak in a brining solution will keep the chicken moist.

Keeping chicken intact has the obvious benefit of protecting it from drying out, but many see the grill as a vehicle for creating deliciously crispy edges that have been licked by direct flame.

Enter the spatchcocked chicken.

Aside from being an extraordinary word to say out loud, this preparation has culinary benefits. If you remove the backbone and keel bone (the one between the breasts), the chicken can be flattened yet stay intact. It cooks in considerably less time, which means it can stand direct heat on the grill without overcooking.

I like to marinate the spatchcocked chicken. Without added flavors, grilled chicken can be bland, but that's what makes it the perfect blank canvas for a range of rubs, marinades or sauces.

I prep the beer can chicken with a smoky dry rub before it goes on the grill. The spatchcocked chicken can soak in any marinade, or it can simply be seasoned and placed on the grill, and served with a bowl of barbecue sauce for dipping.

The possibilities are endless. Whatever the flavor profile, whole chicken on the grill is worth the experiment. At the very least, it will give you time to join the volleyball game.

Spatchcock that chicken

1. Place the chicken breast-side down on a cutting board. Using poultry shears or a very sharp knife, cut from the neck to the tail end along either side of the backbone to remove. You'll be cutting through flesh and small bones, so you'll have to use some force; take special care if using a knife.

2. Once the backbone is out, you will have a clear view of the interior of the chicken. Make a small slit in the cartilage at the bottom end of the breast bones (it covers the dark keel bone underneath).

3. With both hands placed on the rib cage, open the chicken like a book, toward the cutting board. This will reveal the keel bone. Run your fingers up along either side of the cartilage in between the breasts to loosen it from the flesh.

4. Grab the keel bone and pull up to remove it, along with the attached cartilage.

5. Flip over and smooth the skin. You've spatchcocked your bird. Continue with recipe.

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