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About Potatos and Potato Salad

Potato salad is a summer tradition for barbecues or picnics. But is there a consensus as to the best recipe for this classic side dish? Not by a long shot.

Whether the potatoes should be white, red, purple or yellow, peeled or not, is up for grabs. So is the choice of dicing, slicing or smashing. And what about the dressing – vinegar-based or creamy?

Potatoes, of course, originated in the Americas, although the white potato was brought to Europe from Central America before being brought back, and planted, in North America by immigrating Irishmen in the 1700s.

At that time, and well into the next century, the potato was considered poor people's food, usually just boiled and maybe buttered. German immigrants increased the flavor factor by making a salad of freshly boiled potatoes, onion, vinegar, celery or parsley and bacon.

Potato salad may be dressed with vinaigrette, mayonnaise, sour cream, yogurt or even a hot bacon-vinegar combination. Accents may include prepared mustard and dill pickles, sweet pickle relish, celery, green or white onions, tomatoes, chopped red pepper, cucumbers, olives, chopped hard-cooked eggs, assorted seasonings and more.

Almost all herbs match well with potatoes. Try fresh parsley, tarragon, chives, cilantro or basil.

You can turn potato salads into main dishes with the addition of chopped ham, chicken, salmon or shrimp.

It's important when making potato salad to keep the ingredients distinct, the slices or chunks of potatoes separated and the taste of vinegar clear and clean. The best salad is anything you like, as long as it's well made. Here's how:

• Waxy potatoes make the best salad because they will hold their shape once cooked. Red bliss or new potatoes are good choices. Avoid Russet or baking potatoes, as they are floury and tend to fall apart. Buy potatoes of the same size so they will cook evenly.
  
  
• Boil the spuds in their skins to retain the most flavor. Check for doneness by piercing one with the point of a knife; it should enter the center easily. Undercooked potatoes don't taste good, and overcooked ones become mushy.
• Handle the potatoes gently once they are cooked.
• As soon as they are cool enough to handle, cut them into large dice or thick slices.
• Add the dressing while the potatoes are still warm for a creamier texture.
• If you want to peel the potatoes, do it quickly after cooking so they won't get cold, then moisten them right away with a few tablespoons of your dressing. Or do as the French do and spoon some dry white wine over them instead, then add your vinaigrette.
• Potato salad does not benefit from prolonged chilling because cold dressing can congeal and make the potatoes seem dry. If you do refrigerate your salad, bring it to room temperature before serving.

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