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Crispy Traditional Potato Pancakes

These pan-fried potato pancakes are a traditional party food or side dish served during the eight-day Festival of Lights, which begins at sundown on Friday.

Latkes, suganiyot (doughnuts) and other fried foods are eaten to commemorate a miraculous event in 165 B.C., when a day's worth of oil lit the lamps for eight days and eight nights in the reclaimed Jewish temple in Jerusalem.

But how to make the perfect potato pancake? And now that latkes have become so eclectic, how to choose among the thousands of recipes, from cranberry raisin latkes to zucchini feta latkes?

For starters, purists suggest classic potato pancakes. Food processor vs. hand-grating is always a bone of contention, say experts, although most agree the difference doesn't matter much.

Joan Nathan, author of “Jewish Cooking in America,” says in her award-winning book published in 1994 that the key to pancakes par excellence is potato starch. After the potatoes and onions are grated and strained to remove excess water, reserve the potato starch that has settled to the bottom of the bowl. Mix the starch with the potatoes for an extra wallop of flavor and texture.

Another dispute is over which tuber to tap. Many aficionados strike pay dirt in the buttery flavor of Yukon Gold potatoes. Russets, or baking potatoes, also are popular. Nathan cautions against red-skinned potatoes as too gummy.

Even with all the fancy-schmancy variations out there, Nathan is loyal to basic potato latkes.

Pampering your potatoes

Here are some tips for successful latkes:

Leave the potato skin on to add color and texture. If you leave the skin on, scrub the potatoes thoroughly with a vegetable brush. If you do peel them, though, keep them under water between peeling and shredding to prevent them from oxidizing and turning unappetizing shades of pinkish-brown and gray.

Once your potatoes are either scrubbed or peeled, get all the rest of your ingredients ready; you will need to work fairly quickly to get the mixture ready before the potatoes change color.

Jazz up your pancakes by shredding in sweet potatoes, apples, carrots, garlic, parsnips or zucchini. Just be sure that the majority of the mixture still consists of potatoes; other vegetables do not contain enough starch on their own to make the mixture stick together.

Wet, juicy potatoes make for soggy, greasy latkes that fall apart in the pan. The potatoes need to be dry and the oil needs to be hot so that the exterior of the latke will quickly sear to a crispy finish and prevent it from absorbing too much grease. To squeeze out the potato mixture, place it in a piece of cheesecloth or tea towel and wring it out with all your might. When you cannot force out any more liquid out, open up the cheesecloth or tea towel, stir the mixture around a little, and then squeeze it some more. Empty the contents into a bowl and mix in the remaining ingredients.

Heat a pan with vegetable oil 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch deep. When the oil has reached a temperature of about 350 degrees, it's time to fry. If you don't have a deep-fat thermometer, test the temperature of the oil by dropping a small amount of latke mixture into the pan. If it turns golden brown within 1 minute, the oil is ready.

If you aren't able to serve the latkes right away, keep them in the oven at 200 degrees on a pan or platter. To keep them crispy, don't stack them and refrain from covering them.

Crispy Traditional Potato Pancakes

Makes about 2 dozen pancakes

• 2 pounds russet (baking) or Yukon Gold potatoes
• 1 medium onion
• 1 large egg, beaten
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
• Vegetable oil for frying

Peel the potatoes and put in cold water. Using a grater or a food processor, coarsely grate the potatoes and onion. Place together in a fine-mesh strainer or tea towel and squeeze out all the water over a bowl. The potato starch will settle to the bottom; reserve that after you have carefully poured off the water.

Mix the potato and onion with the potato starch. Add the egg, and salt and pepper.

Heat a griddle or nonstick pan and coat with a thin film of vegetable oil. Take about 2 tablespoons of the potato mixture in the palm of your hand and flatten as best you can. Place the potato mixture on the griddle, flatten with a large spatula, and fry for a few minutes until golden. Flip the pancake over and brown the other side. Remove to paper towels to drain. Serve immediately. You can also freeze the potato pancakes and crisp them in a 350-degree oven at a later time.

Variation: If you want a thicker pancake, add an extra egg plus 1/3 cup of matzo meal to the batter.

(From “ Jewish Cooking in America ” by Joan Nathan, Knopf.)

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