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Mustardy Barbecued Spareribs

6 to 8 servings

• 2 (3 1/2-pound) racks of spareribs
  
  
  BARBECUE RUB
  
  
  • 1 tablespoon kosher salt
  • 1/4 cup sugar
  • 1 tablespoon chili powder
  • 1 tablespoon paprika or ancho chili powder
  • 3 tablespoons ground cumin
  • 2 teaspoons Colman's dry mustard
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
  
  
  SAUCE
  
  
  • 1/2 cup cider vinegar
  • 1/2 cup medium weight beer, such as Sierra Nevada Pale Ale
  • 1 teaspoon sugar
  • 2 teaspoons Colman's prepared mustard
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt

Preheat oven to 300 degrees. In a small bowl, combine all the rub ingredients. Rub the ribs all over with the dry spice mixture, place them in a roasting pan on a baking sheet, put them in the oven and let them roast for 2 hours, or until very tender. They are now completely cooked and can be refrigerated for two or three days, or until you are ready to serve.

When you're ready to grill, heat a gas grill to medium or dump your briquettes on one side only of a charcoal grill so you have a pile that reaches a couple inches below the grilling grate. Light the briquettes and let them burn until covered with gray ash, 20 to 30 minutes.

Scrape some of the coals off the pile so the charcoal covers two-thirds of the grill and one third has no charcoal at all. Put grate on top and let it heat up while you collect the ribs. Brush grate well with a grill brush and use a pair of tongs to clean it again with a wad of paper towels drizzled with oil. Let charcoal burn down to medium heat. (It's medium hot if you can hold your hand 5 inches above the grate for three or four seconds.) Put the ribs directly over the charcoal and grill slowly, turning once, until the ribs are heated through and have developed a crust, about 20 minutes. If the ribs flame, pull them off the heat or douse the flaming coals with a squirt gun, then put the ribs back over the heat.

Meanwhile, stir together all sauce ingredients. When ribs are ready, cut between bones with a knife to separate. Brush with sauce and serve with remaining sauce on the side.

(From “ The Food You Want to Eat ” by Ted Allen, Clarkson Potter.)

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