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East-Meets-West Baby-Back Ribs

4 generous servings

  • 4 racks baby-back ribs (about 11/2 pounds each)
  • Wood chips, soaked in water for 30 minutes (optional)
  • 2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste
  • 4 teaspoons Chinese five-spice powder (divided use)
  • 2 tablespoons untoasted sesame oil
  • 1 cup hoisin sauce
  • 2 tablespoons molasses or cane syrup
  • 2 tablespoons apricot jam with chunks
  • 4 teaspoons garlic-chili sauce (Sriracha)
  • 1 knob fresh ginger, peeled, grated
  • 1 small bunch of chives, minced

Pat ribs dry with paper towels. Build a charcoal fire or preheat gas grill. Set up grill for indirect heat and, if using wood chips, place soaked chips directly on charcoal or in the smoking box.

Remove silver skin from back of ribs, if you like. Combine 2 teaspoons salt and 3 teaspoons five-spice powder in a bowl. Sprinkle spice mixture over ribs. Brush with sesame oil. Place ribs bone side down in center of grate, over indirect medium-low heat (325 degrees). Grill, covered, for 11/2 to 2 hours, or until meat is tender and has pulled back from ends of bones. Leave ribs untended for first 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, make glaze by whisking hoisin sauce, molasses, jam, Sriracha and ginger in a non-reactive bowl. Taste and add remaining salt and five-spice powder if needed. Cover sauce and set aside.

After 1 hour, brush glaze on ribs and grill for 30 to 45 minutes more, or until sauce is caramelized and slightly shiny. If ribs start to burn on edges, stack them in center of grill and lower fire slightly. Twenty minutes before ribs are done, unstack if necessary and brush again with glaze. Remove ribs from grill and let rest 10 minutes before cutting into one-to three-rib portions. Transfer meat to a clean platter. Garnish with chives and serve with warmed glaze on the side.

(Adapted from “Taming the Flame ”by Elizabeth Karmel.)

 

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